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九天68场秀落幕:巴黎时装周2027春夏收官,圣罗兰全金造型、香奈儿飞鸟与LV罗浮宫压轴

2026-10-06 · 文化娱乐 · GSM News

当地时间9月28日至10月6日,2027春夏巴黎时装周女装周举行。法国高级时装与成衣协会(FHCM)公布的官方日程共列68场时装秀与33场静态发布,约百家品牌参与,10月6日晚由Louis Vuitton在罗浮宫方形广场举行的收官秀为整周画上句号。

重头戏在9月29日一天内三场连发。Dior创意总监Jonathan Anderson在杜乐丽花园发布其第三个女装系列,把品牌经典的New Look线条做得更松弛;当晚,Saint Laurent创意总监Anthony Vaccarello在特罗卡德罗广场以一整场金色造型庆祝自己执掌品牌十周年,埃菲尔铁塔在身后亮起。上一季远赴上海办秀的Maison Margiela本季也回归巴黎日程。

本季仅有的两场大牌首秀来自Drew Henry执掌的Courrèges(9月30日)与Kai Nesselrath执掌的Carven(10月1日)。其余日程星光密集:Hermès、Givenchy、Valentino、Lanvin相继登场,Miu Miu本季改到周日下午发布,Acne Studios迎来创立30周年,John Galliano与Zara的合作系列也在周内亮相。本季的另一条主线是「新帅打磨期」:一年前同一周曾有八场重磅创意总监首秀,今年各家新任设计师大多进入第二、第三个系列。

高潮出现在10月5日晚,香奈儿创意总监Matthieu Blazy在大皇宫以近百只发光飞鸟布景庆祝上任一周年,品牌形象大使王一博等中国面孔坐进前排(详见本站香奈儿专稿)。10月6日,Louis Vuitton创意总监Nicolas Ghesquière以名为「人体工学」(Ergonomie)的系列收官:数十个楔形飞行器装置悬在罗浮宫方形广场上空,轻盈的长大衣为整个2027春夏时装月收尾。本季时装月此前已先后走过纽约、伦敦与米兰三站。(GSM综合FHCM官方日程与公开报道)

关联:近百只发光飞鸟悬满大皇宫:香奈儿2027春夏压轴推出『会动的粗花呢』,王一博第11次坐进秀场前排

Nine Days and 68 Shows: Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027 Closes With Saint Laurent Gold, Chanel's Birds and a Louis Vuitton Louvre Finale

Paris Fashion Week's Spring Summer 2027 womenswear season ran from September 28 to October 6. The official calendar published by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) listed 68 runway shows and 33 presentations from around 100 houses, closing on the evening of October 6 with Louis Vuitton at the Cour Carrée of the Louvre.

The heavyweight opening came on September 29, with three major houses in one day. At the Tuileries, Dior's Jonathan Anderson presented his third womenswear collection, loosening the house's classic New Look silhouette; that night, at the Trocadéro, Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello marked ten years at the house with an all-gold collection beneath the Eiffel Tower. Maison Margiela, which showed in Shanghai last season, also returned to the Paris schedule.

The season's only two big-house debuts followed: Drew Henry's first Courrèges collection on September 30 and Kai Nesselrath's first Carven on October 1. The rest of the week was dense with major names — Hermès, Givenchy, Valentino and Lanvin among them — while Miu Miu moved to a Sunday afternoon slot, Acne Studios marked its 30th anniversary, and John Galliano's collaboration with Zara was unveiled. A year after a Paris season defined by eight blockbuster creative-director debuts, this edition was widely read as a consolidation season, with the new guard into their second and third collections.

The climax came on October 5, when Chanel's Matthieu Blazy celebrated his first anniversary at the Grand Palais beneath nearly a hundred illuminated birds, with Chinese faces including house ambassador Wang Yibo in the front row (see GSM's Chanel report). On October 6, Louis Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesquière closed the week with a collection titled "Ergonomie," its finale of featherweight coats staged beneath dozens of wedge-shaped flying installations suspended over the Cour Carrée — the last word of a fashion month that had already passed through New York, London and Milan. (GSM, from the FHCM official calendar and published reports)

Related: Nearly 100 Glowing Birds Fill the Grand Palais: Chanel Spring Summer 2027 Debuts Stretch 'Smocked Tweed' as Wang Yibo Returns for His 11th Show

来源:GSM·美国(原文链接)

图片来源:巴黎大皇宫外景,巴黎时装周核心秀场之一,香奈儿在此发布2027春夏系列。Cristian Bortes摄,CC BY 2.0(经Wikimedia Commons)

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