近百只发光飞鸟悬满大皇宫：香奈儿2027春夏压轴推出『会动的粗花呢』，王一博第11次坐进秀场前排
当地时间10月5日晚，巴黎时装周期间，香奈儿（Chanel）在巴黎大皇宫发布2027春夏高级成衣系列。这是时尚创意总监Matthieu Blazy上任满一周年的第三个成衣系列，共83个造型，主题为「对话·第三章：同一枚硬币的不同面」。
整个系列以品牌创始人Gabrielle Chanel的一生为线索：从她年轻时穿过又抛弃的爱德华时代束身衣与针织内衣，到让她扬名的粗花呢套装，再到晚年的华丽风格。Blazy在系列说明中写道，女性在一生中会成为多个自己，如同同一枚硬币的不同面；这不是一个怀旧的历史系列，而是关于Gabrielle Chanel多重人生故事的系列。开场与闭幕由同一位模特Dyanira Hurbuscher完成，她两次都手持香奈儿女士本人用过的2.55手袋，这件藏品专程从品牌典藏库中取出。
大皇宫玻璃穹顶下悬挂着近百只发光飞鸟装置，灵感来自Blazy在意大利南部度假地附近的一处候鸟保护区，地面则处理成如河床般反光。飞鸟意象也落在服装上，化作纽扣、珠宝与刺绣，象征自由与迁徙。
据路透社报道，本季看点包括透视奶油色与黑色裙装套装，缀以花卉与珠饰；粗花呢被做成宽大的窗格纹并拼入网纱，还有醒目的红白虎纹粗花呢。压轴段落推出全新工艺「褶皱粗花呢」：一种带弹性的功能性面料，能像第二层皮肤一样贴合身体活动，同时保留经典套装的外观。配饰方面有云朵印花皮具、鸟笼造型晚宴包与新款表链翻盖包。秀场配乐从Lesley Gore的《You Don't Own Me》转入Britney Spears《Gimme More》的混音，Blazy在音乐声中跑上T台谢幕。
前排嘉宾包括品牌大使Nicole Kidman（携15岁女儿Faith）、Dua Lipa、Pedro Pascal、Kristen Wiig、Marion Cotillard等。品牌官方公布的前排名单中，中国面孔格外醒目：品牌形象大使王一博身着尚未上市的2027早春度假系列报纸印花大衣出席，这是他第11次亮相香奈儿秀场；演员辛芷蕾与窦靖童同样在座。
本系列将于2027年3月起陆续进店销售。（GSM综合路透社报道与品牌公开信息）
关联：九天68场秀落幕：巴黎时装周2027春夏收官，圣罗兰全金造型、香奈儿飞鸟与LV罗浮宫压轴
Nearly 100 Glowing Birds Fill the Grand Palais: Chanel Spring Summer 2027 Debuts Stretch 'Smocked Tweed' as Wang Yibo Returns for His 11th Show
On the evening of October 5, during Paris Fashion Week, Chanel presented its Spring Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection at the Grand Palais in Paris. It was artistic director Matthieu Blazy's third ready-to-wear collection for the house, marking his first anniversary in the role: 83 looks under the title "La Conversation, Part Three — Different Faces of the Same Coin."
The collection follows the life of founder Gabrielle Chanel — from the Edwardian corsetry she once wore and then abandoned, and her pioneering jersey, to the tweed suiting that made her name and the richer glamour of her later years. In the show notes, Blazy wrote that women become multiple selves across a lifetime, different faces of the same coin, and that this was not a historical collection but one about Gabrielle Chanel's layered stories. Model Dyanira Hurbuscher both opened and closed the show, each time carrying Gabrielle Chanel's own 2.55 handbag, taken from the house's Patrimoine archives for the occasion.
Nearly a hundred illuminated birds hung in flight beneath the Grand Palais glass roof, inspired by a migratory bird sanctuary near the village in southern Italy where Blazy vacations, above a floor painted to shimmer like a riverbed. Birds also alighted on the clothes as buttons, jewellery and embroidery, symbols of freedom and migration.
According to Reuters, the season's highlights included sheer cream and black skirt suits embroidered with flowers and beads, tweed loosened into wide windowpane checks with mesh panels, and an eye-catching red-and-white tiger-print tweed. The final chapter debuted "smocked tweed," an engineered stretch fabric that moves like a second skin while keeping the look of classic suiting. Accessories included cloud-printed leather goods, a birdcage minaudière and new watch-chain flap bags. The soundtrack moved from Lesley Gore's "You Don't Own Me" into a remix of Britney Spears' "Gimme More," as Blazy ran out to take his bow.
Front-row guests included ambassador Nicole Kidman, attending with her 15-year-old daughter Faith, Dua Lipa, Pedro Pascal, Kristen Wiig and Marion Cotillard. The house's official front-row list also featured prominent Chinese faces: house ambassador Wang Yibo, wearing a newspaper-print coat from the not-yet-released Cruise 2027 collection at his 11th Chanel show, and actresses Xin Zhilei and Leah Dou.
The collection is scheduled to reach boutiques from March 2027. (GSM, from Reuters reporting and the house's public materials)
来源：GSM·美国（原文链接）
图片来源：香奈儿2027春夏大秀在巴黎大皇宫谢幕，近百只发光飞鸟悬于穹顶。图：CHANEL官方频道秀场视频封面
