华人设计师亮相巴黎时装周：王汁、Ruohan与夏姿·陈接连发布2027春夏
法国巴黎2027春夏时装周期间，三组华人设计师品牌接连登上法国高级时装与时尚联合会（FHCM）官方日程：聂若涵的Ruohan于9月30日做静态展示，王汁（Uma Wang）于10月1日办走秀，台湾设计师品牌夏姿·陈（Shiatzy Chen）于10月5日发布《序蘭》系列。
Ruohan的发布并非走秀，而是9月30日14时至16时30分的静态展示。新系列名为「In Becoming」，灵感来自汉字基本笔画横、竖、撇、捺：线条化作剪切与开口，衣身、袖片与裙摆像积木一样被拆分、移位再重组。展示空间由弧形铝制雕塑构成，格纹亚麻以多向交织的纱线织成；本季还首次加入风衣式外套与马甲，一改品牌以往修长的比例。品牌由设计师聂若涵于2021年创立，并预告今年11月在上海湖南路开出第一家独立门店。
王汁10月1日16时30分在巴黎一座19世纪新教教堂里办秀。2027春夏系列从Alexander Calder的动态雕塑与持续升温的气候中取材，核心是轻盈、平衡与空气感：服装由多层组成，穿着者可以自行重新组合；欧根纱、皱褶亚麻与透明技术面料在身上垂坠、扭转、打结，色调在米白、米色、古铜、棕与黑之间展开。
夏姿·陈10月5日11时30分的走秀以《序蘭》为题，延续东方「四君子」的叙事，以兰为核心意象：兰叶、花瓣与根系的线条被转成修长流动的廓形，蝴蝶造型胸针、带竹元素的包袋与玉石感扣饰点缀其间，色彩取自深蓝、深红与草木绿等自然色调。
本季进入FHCM官方日程的中国品牌共有六个：除上述三家外，Icicle、Reverie by Caroline Hú与Didu也分别以静态展示形式参加。三家本篇聚焦的品牌一家走静态展示、两家走秀，档期从时装周第三天排到第八天。
关联：九天68场秀落幕：巴黎时装周2027春夏收官，圣罗兰全金造型、香奈儿飞鸟与LV罗浮宫压轴
来源：GSM·美国
Chinese Designers Take Paris Fashion Week: Uma Wang, Ruohan and Shiatzy Chen Present Spring Summer 2027
During Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027, three Chinese designer labels appeared in succession on the official calendar of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM): Ruohan, by Ruohan Nie, held a presentation on September 30; Uma Wang, by Wang Zhi, staged a runway show on October 1; and Taiwanese label Shiatzy Chen presented its collection In Accord on October 5.
Ruohan's event was not a runway show but a presentation from 2:00 to 4:30 p.m. on September 30. The new collection, In Becoming, begins with the basic strokes of Chinese characters: horizontal, vertical, left-falling and right-falling. Lines become cuts and openings, while fronts, sleeves and skirts are divided, shifted and recombined like building blocks. Curved aluminum sculptures shaped the presentation space, and a checkered linen was woven with yarns running in multiple directions. The season also introduced trench-style outerwear and vests, loosening the label's familiar elongated proportions. Founded by Ruohan Nie in 2021, the brand also previewed its first standalone store, set to open on Shanghai's Hunan Road in November.
Uma Wang showed at 4:30 p.m. on October 1 inside a 19th-century Protestant church in Paris. The Spring Summer 2027 collection drew on Alexander Calder's mobiles and on rising temperatures, built around lightness, balance and air. Layered pieces can be rearranged by the wearer; organza, crumpled linen and sheer technical fabrics are draped, twisted and knotted around the body in a palette of ecru, beige, bronze, brown and black.
Shiatzy Chen's runway show at 11:30 a.m. on October 5, titled In Accord, continues the house's narrative of the Four Gentlemen of Eastern culture, centered on the orchid. The lines of orchid leaves, petals and roots become elongated, flowing silhouettes, accented by butterfly brooches, bamboo-detailed bags and jade-like closures, in natural shades including deep blue, deep red and botanical green.
Six Chinese labels in total appeared on this season's FHCM official calendar: in addition to the three above, Icicle, Reverie by Caroline Hú and Didu also took part, each in presentation format. The three labels featured here, one presentation and two runway shows, were spread from the third day of fashion week to the eighth.
Source: GSM · USA
来源：GSM·美国（原文链接）
图片来源：图：Uma Wang深圳门店，品牌招牌与当季成衣陈列；非巴黎秀场照片。（图：Wikimedia Commons，CC0）/ The Uma Wang store in Shenzhen, with the brand sign and ready-to-wear displays; not a Paris runway photo. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons, CC0)
GSM Global · 本篇英文版 English edition of this story
