25年来首款新防晒成分在美上架：FDA已批准贝莫三嗪 露得清等首批产品陆续到店
据美联社10月14日报道，首批含有贝莫三嗪（bemotrizinol，简称BEMT）的防晒产品本周起陆续在美国商店上架——这是25多年来，美国消费者第一次迎来一种新的防晒活性成分。美国食品药品管理局（FDA）今年6月已批准该成分，首批上市产品包括露得清的Ultra Sheer SPF 70等配方。
贝莫三嗪在欧洲、澳大利亚与部分亚洲国家已使用数十年。皮肤科医生向美联社表示，它填补了美国市场的一处缺口：能像最成熟的防晒成分一样提供广谱防护，又没有白色条痕等使用感上的缺点。
防晒产品要有效，必须同时挡住两种紫外线：造成晒伤的UVB，以及与皮肤癌和皮肤老化风险关系最大的UVA。能同时防护两者的产品可标示「广谱防护」，不能的则须带FDA警示标示。据美联社报道，贝莫三嗪是美国第一种单靠自身即可提供这种双重防护的化学性防晒成分，此前生产商必须混合多种成分，才能同时覆盖UVA与UVB。
安全性方面，贝莫三嗪背后有数十年的使用与研究数据，其中包括显示其经皮肤吸收量很低的研究；经皮肤吸收正是一些较老的防晒化学成分长期受到关注的环节。纽约大学朗格尼健康中心皮肤科医生珍妮弗·斯坦因对美联社说：「它不是一种全新的、需要你第一个去尝试的成分。」
环境工作组（EWG）首席科学官戴维·安德鲁斯对美联社表示，这一成分为目前美国防晒产品在提供强UVA防护上的缺口提供了解法。
First New Sunscreen Ingredient in 25 Years Reaches U.S. Shelves After FDA Approval of Bemotrizinol
The first sunscreens containing bemotrizinol — often shortened to BEMT — began reaching U.S. store shelves this week, the Associated Press reported on October 14, giving American shoppers a new sunscreen active ingredient for the first time in more than 25 years. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration approved the ingredient in June, and the first products on shelves include Neutrogena's Ultra Sheer SPF 70 and formulas from other manufacturers.
Bemotrizinol has been used for decades in Europe, Australia and parts of Asia. Dermatologists told the AP that it fills an important gap in the U.S. market: it offers broad protection like the most established sunscreen ingredients, but without cosmetic downsides such as white streaking.
To be effective, a sunscreen must block both forms of ultraviolet light that damage skin — UVB rays, which cause most sunburn, and UVA rays, which pose the greatest risk of skin cancer and wrinkles. Products that block both can be labeled as offering broad-spectrum protection; those that do not must carry an FDA warning label. According to the AP, BEMT is the first chemical-based sunscreen ingredient in the U.S. that provides this dual protection on its own; previously, manufacturers had to mix multiple ingredients to cover both UVA and UVB.
On safety, BEMT has decades of data behind it, including studies showing minimal absorption into the skin — absorption having been a concern with some older sun-blocking chemicals. Dr. Jennifer Stein, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Health, told the AP: "It's not a brand-new ingredient that you're going to be the first person to try."
David Andrews, chief science officer of the Environmental Working Group, told the AP the ingredient provides a solution for what is currently a big gap in strong UVA protection in U.S. sunscreens.
发布：GSM·美国（发布链接）
图片来源：防晒霜涂在背部：普通光线下几乎看不见（左），在紫外光线下清晰显形（右）· Andrew Steele 摄，CC0（维基共享资源）
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